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Showing posts with label Sangiovese. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sangiovese. Show all posts

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Sangiovese is it the forgotten talent... ?

Traditionally Australians are quite un-knowledgeable when it comes to Sangiovese, which probably accounts for the small amount grown and sold in Australia. 
Italian immigrants from Tuscany probably introduced the Sangiovese grape to many countries throughout the globe. They are credited with its introduction in California in the late 1800s, possibly at the Segheshio Family's "Chianti Station," near Geyserville. It is one of several varietal components of the field blend in many old North Coast and Gold Country Californian vineyards that are often otherwise identified as Zinfandel.
Sanguis Jovis, the Latin origin for the varietal name, literally means "blood of Jove" and it is likely that Sangiovese (a.k.a. Sangioveto or San Gioveto) was known by Etruscan winemakers, although the first literary reference to it was in 1722. It is probably indigenous to Tuscany, whose most famous wine is Chianti.
The basic blend of Chianti was established by Baron Ricasoli in the 1890s. This averages 70% sangiovese as the varietal base (along with 15% canaiolo [red], and 15% trebbiano [white] and sometimes a little colorino [red]). Many vineyards are traditionally planted with this varietal mix. It is difficult even for the Italians to keep up with their own ever-changing and very detailed wine laws, which specify permitted grape types, maximum yields per acre, minimum alcohol content, minimum aging standards before sale, etc. Currently, the minimum amount of sangiovese permitted in Chianti is 90%. Other grapes that may be used now include malvasia toscana, a white grape far superior to the ubiquitous trebbiano. Still, the total white grapes used must not exceed 5% of the blend.
In some ways sangiovese is to Chianti as cabernet sauvignon is to Bordeaux. Both form the base of wines normally blended with other varietals and both by themselves share a certain distinctive elegance and complexity, when well-made.
There are at least 14 separate and distinct clones of sangiovese. At one point, there was some attempt in Italy to identify two separate "families", Grosso and Piccolo, although this seemed to have more commercial basis ("mine's better than yours") than ampelographic or taste evidence to justify this attempt to classify.
The fruit is slow to mature and late-ripening. With relatively thin skins, it has a tendency to rot in dampness and does not mature well if planted above an elevation of 1,500 feet. Sangiovese vineyards with limestone soil seem to produce wines with more forceful aromas.
The hot, dry climate, such as Tuscany provides, is where sangiovese thrives. Because these climatic criteria generally enhance quantity, rather than quality, it takes careful cultivation and winemaking techniques to produce really excellent wine from this grape. The official classification of Chianti itself demonstrates the widely fluctuating range of Sangiovese quality from those identified as ordinary vino di tavola to the highest classico superiore. Sangiovese is the #1 varietal in Italy with 247,000 acres, 10% of the entire wine grape crop.
The flavor profile of Sangiovese is fruity, with moderate to high natural acidity and generally a medium-body ranging from firm and elegant to assertive and robust and a finish that can tend towards bitterness. The aroma is generally not as assertive and easily identifiable as Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, but can have a strawberry, blueberry, faintly floral, violet or plummy character.










Typical Sangiovese Smell and/or Flavor Descriptors
Varietal Aromas/Flavors:Processing Bouquets/Flavors:
Fruit: strawberry, blueberry, orange peel, plum.
Floral: violetOak (light): vanilla, sweet wood
Spice: cinnamon, clove, thymeOak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar
Most Chianti up through the 1980s was imported in straw-covered fiasci and more attention was paid to low price than any quality factor. Probably because of this association, very few California wine reference books published before 1990 make mention of Sangiovese as either wine or grape. With no snob-appeal as a "collector's wine," it generated little interest from growers or consumers until relatively recently.
Tuscan winemakers, experimenting the past few years with blends of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and/or merlot have succeeded creating some excellent Supertuscan blends commanding high prices. This has led to an increasing number of experimental Sangiovese vineyards being planted. There are several Australian producers now making proprietary blends of cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese, following the Supertuscan example.
It will be interesting to see the progress of Australian Sangiovese over the next few decades, as the right vineyard locales and the best fermentation, blending, and aging techniques are discovered.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Castagna


Castagna is situate in Beechworth Victoria, one of the countries fasted growing cold climate regions, tucked in t the nape of the Victorian Alps. The winery site on just over 4h of Syrah, Viognier & Sangiovese  with a small pocket of Pinot noir. Syrah & Sangiovese are the masters of this stunning venture, with a Altitude of 500 meters above sea level. Castagna is one of Victoria's Premier Biodynamic  Vineyards. A vineyard in its infancy Castagna was established in the early part of the 1990's it has already had its fair share of up's and down's. Having seen devastating fires of 2003 and coming of age during one of the worst droughts that this country has ever had to endure Castagna has not only flourished but is has cemented its name one the List of Victoria's premier Vineyards. Julian has a realistic approach to his wines; 
"We make wines of terroir. Terroir is not only about soil but the whole eco-system which consists of light, heat, prevailing winds, slope of the land, length of the season and, most importantly, the organisms living and working in the soil - about a billion organisms per gram of soil. It is these micro-organisms that link the soil to the roots of the vine, strengthening and imprinting that particular soil’s authentic character."

The Castagna 2005 Un Segreto show great promise for things to come. The hue is deep with good weight and a vast depth of elegant purple, with a nose of plum, berry fruit and the always seductive savoury finesse.  The 2005 shows a agreeable balance between the new and old french oak that it was so alluringly crafted in. The principal palate shows an elegant balance of fruit and savoury notes. There is great tannin structure, the oak and fruit balancing the tannin level nicely. This wine shows some Pinot like characteristic's with its great balance of all the elements that are concussive of well crafted wine. It has a well developed length of palate and an enjoyable finish. To me this is a wine well worth savouring & stocking up on.
94 Points Drink Now Till 2018
DIAM Closure
$75